Word: shirtwaists
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...neither set in his ways, like Mainbocher, nor out to amaze like Rudi Gernreich (of the topless-suit Gernreichs). He is a fashion moderate in step with the day, inventive but practical, inspired but patient. His virtues have paid off in a long line of fashion hits: the evening shirtwaist, the empire look, the chemise, the wool evening dress, the sequined sheath and culottes...
This spring Marimekko has come of age. Veering away from the pseudo ivy league button-down, shirtwaist styles, and the blatant tents for which it had become known, its lines are tamer. However, the effect is definitely on the wild side. A few styles retain excess fullness, but most are slimmed down and even semi-fitted. The trend from small geometric and corny floral-like prints to bold architectonic designs is an improvement. Wrought iron and fossil prints as well as the large circle designs really grab you. Specific spring shapes are back fullness, semi-A (fitted to waist), real...
...dress. First, I caught it in the car door. Then the baby poured soup in my lap. To top it all off, the grocer asked me if I were expecting another child. I've been wearing pants ever since." Next to pants, the staple is the simple, classic shirtwaist dress. It is now-thanks largely to new synthetic fibers and treated cottons -sturdy, wrinkleproof, quick-drying...
Died. Maurice Rentner, 69, "The King" of Manhattan's Seventh Avenue, Polish-born leader of U.S. fashion, who fought design piracy in and out of the garment district, primed such innovations as shirtwaist dresses and dressmaker suits, thought U.S. women the world's best dressed, "despite the fact that once every so often I see a woman in a dress I've struggled over, carrying herself like a hod carrier"; of a brain tumor; in Manhattan...
...girls are a study of Gallic contrasts. Mick Micheyl is sunny; Juliette Greco is subterranean. In her simple sheath or plain skirt and white broadcloth shirtwaist, Mick affects the saucy style of a French street urchin-the impertinent type Parisians call un titi. Juliette, in her clinging, floor-length black, displays the kind of world-weariness that once moved Jean Cocteau to speak of "the 'ruinous jewel of her heart." Both Mick and Juliette, intense admirers insist, do not merely sing-they have something...