Word: shirtwaists
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When Noel gets around to shredding Margie's shirtwaist in his cabin one cozy evening, Margie does a sudden uncooperative freeze. Noel turns eloquently nasty and, incidentally, states the main theme of the book: "Your name is Shirley," he tells Marjorie, "the respectable girl, the mother of the next generation, all tricked out to appear gay and girlish and carefree, but with a terrible threatening solid dullness jutting through, like the gray rocks under the spring grass in Central Park . . . What [Shirley] wants is what a woman should want . . . big diamond engagement ring, house in a good neighborhood, furniture...
...ideal American beauty-tall, slim, long-legged." As one of the most un-American types imaginable (short, curvy, unathletic), I would like to testify that McCardell's clothes have been as if made-to-order for me from the early dirndl and Monastics through to the recent classic shirtwaist...
...most people the starched white uniforms worn by nurses all look alike-but not to nurses. They are well aware that since Florence Nightingale tended the Crimea wounded in a long, grey tweed wrapper, nurses' uniforms have followed fashion from the Gibson-girl shirtwaist to the pencil-slim sheath. To nurses, the top designer and dressmaker is Manhattan's White Swan Uniforms, Inc. Last week White Swan brought out a fat new catalogue with 98 attractive styles. Newest additions to the line: a high-busted, low-waisted Dior-like model that could almost double as a cocktail dress...
Conventionality and custom triumph, however, where golfing clothes are concerned. The ever familiar shirtwaist, the tallored skirt, will appear regularly on the greens because the smartness and freedom of movement allowed in its styling have yet to be improved upon...
...that art was more important than a good living; he lit out for Paris. Soon he was painting competent, easy-to-take hybrids of Sargent and Whistler, and with them winning prizes and acclaim. With An Arrangement, a low-keyed study of a girl in shirtwaist and skirt kneeling on an oriental carpet, he pulled down the fattest plum the U.S. had to offer an artist, $1,500 and a gold medal for the best painting in the 1901 Carnegie International. Collectors began buying his conventional canvases, museums began displaying them...