Word: shishas
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...Return to the Old City and wander round the Jewish quarter, then smoke shisha at the Al Noufara Café, tel: (963-11) 943 9535, or go to Bakdash, tel: (963-11) 221 2870, and try Syria's most famous ice cream. In the evening, dine at Naranj, tel: (963-11) 541 3444, one of Damascus' most sophisticated eateries. Feel like an Ottoman prince as you savor the tastes of a city you already want to return...
...helped put the city on the culinary map with his eponymous French Quarter fusion restaurant. But when the rent was tripled to $45,000 a month last January, he packed up. The new digs, tel: (84-4) 3719 2460, are cramped, but fans will find the bordello red curtains, shisha-smoking rooms and irreverent menu essentially unchanged. Another French Quarter landmark forced to close was the perennially popular Emperor. The owners recently opened a fresh venture, the Mandarin, tel: (84-4) 3719 1168, on the banks of West Lake. Though the new venue lacks the imperial dining ambiance...
...served beer, even at hotel restaurants that remain open during the period. (Some five-star hotels in a couple of countries have a single bar open offering alcoholic drinks to foreigners only.) Most of the restaurant business is taken over by cafes that offer the post-Iftar shisha (hookah pipes) and sweet drinks like hibiscus and tamarind juices...
Still, in cosmopolitan Cairo and Beirut, most hotels and some trendy restaurants take advantage of tradition and capitalize on the late Ramadan hours, putting up large tents where friends meet for the late Sohour meal, mint tea, games of cards, backgammon, music and of course the Shisha. Business people have taken advantage of these traditional gatherings to make contact with clients and government officials...
...Edgware road the cafes remain full long into the night as customers savour their final few days of freedom to puff. Tobias, a bingo-hall worker in his twenties, has come all the way from the suburbs with his girlfriend for dinner - and some shisha...