Word: shiso
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Dates: during 2001-2001
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With Nobu, New Yorkers' palates and vocabularies expanded. A decade ago, when Tadashi Ono became the executive chef at the renowned La Caravelle, the owners omitted any mention in the menu of ingredients like yuzu, a tart citrus fruit, and shiso, a mint-like herb, because the exotic terms intimidated diners. Today, at Ono's own restaurant, Sono, waiters proudly tout the yuzu cosmopolitan and shiso margarita...
Darwin is alive and well in Nish's recipes. On a Thursday evening in the gleaming basement kitchen, a worker dots a carpaccio of lobster that rests on a shiso leaf with dollops of mentaiko, or spicy cod roe, and uni, or sea urchin. "The first time I made that, I thought I'd sell a couple to Japanese customers," Nish says. "Instead, it's become one of my most popular dishes." Another worker shaves thin circles of black truffle to decorate a wedge of hamachi, or yellowtail, sizzling in a pan of duck fat and bacon morsels...
...comply. Ruby Foo's serves up unabashedly inauthentic creations, like a grilled pineapple, kiwi and mango maki with a neon-green cilantro sauce. Monster Sushi features the fist-sized Monster Roll: eel, shrimp, avocado, asparagus, mushroom, flying-fish roe and spinach. Even more shocking: Sushi Samba combines salmon, shiso, jalapeño, red onions, eel and gooey melted mozzarella in its El Topo Roll (accompanied by spicy mayo and onion fritters...
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