Word: shrimped
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...hassle and uneven.) Galatoire's is a turn-of-the- century set piece with white woodwork, beveled mirrors and brass coat hooks. Waiters are crisply professional; they even chop ice from huge blocks so drinks stay cold and undiluted. The overwhelming attraction is the lush Creole seafood: shrimp remoulade with its brassy mustard and paprika-zapped sauce; plump oysters Rockefeller; trout meuniere amandine, fragrant with hot brown butter and almond slices; and eggplant with a gentle, rich seafood stuffing. No reservations, ever, not even for a native or the nominee...
...Mosca's. August is vacation month, so delegates will alas miss a sui generis Creole-Italian cuisine in a no-frills roadhouse about 30 minutes from the French Quarter. Classics include cracked crab marinated in Italian vegetable pickles; oysters baked with garlic, parsley and bread crumbs; barbecued shrimp heady with rosemary; hand-rolled spaghetti with butter, olive oil and garlic; and homemade fennel-sweet Italian sausage...
...leafy upstairs Garden Room rather than the drab downstairs. Don't miss oysters Trufant, poached and glossed with cream and caviar; crab-meat ravigote sparkling with a Creole mustard dressing and capers; velvety, thick turtle soup; fillets of trout with crunchy pecans; roast quail with a crab-and-shrimp stuffing; and hot bread- pudding souffle...
...Bozo's. In the glaring sprawl of suburban Metairie, this is the place to hunker down over the area's best boiled and fried oysters, shrimp and crayfish. Gumbo with chicken and smoky andouille sausage is properly peppery and thickened with a sprinkling of file...
...Gautreau's. One of the new restaurants in the Uptown residential area, this is an urbane cafe with oxblood walls and white embossed-tin ceiling. Best dishes: batter-fried eggplant filled with shrimp and crab meat, and rabbit * fillet with sun-dried tomatoes...