Word: sikkim
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...catering is never dull, and neither is the trekking. And while Sikkim is big on adventure, it's a thumbnail of a place, hemmed in by Nepal, China, Bhutan and India. In 1975, this Hobbit-sized realm-a cute 110 km by 60 km-was annexed by India. But borders here have always been vague, making the Sikkimese a loose mix of Himalayan peoples and of forest-dwelling Lepcha, the area's earliest inhabitants. Unlike other parts of the Himalayas, few in Sikkim make their homes in the inhospitable mountains. Tending yaks and planting rice on barren slopes...
...Trekkers, though, are scrupulously monitored. Much of Sikkim is forbidden to foreigners, and access to the rest is governed by permits. Our trek was a seven-day slog toward the Goecha La plateau to see the sun rise on the world's third highest mountain: the mighty, 8,586-meter Kanchenjunga. Apart from a guide, it required three permits. But even if it wasn't illegal, wandering alone is a brow-furrowing prospect, for trails quickly extend beyond the reach of telephones. Dialing air rescue in emergencies is not an option, which is why, by the time we started, staff...
...hour, tooth-loosening drive west of Gangtok, Sikkim's capital, the monastery is at the center of a divisive and sometimes violent battle within Tibetan Buddhism's Kagyupa (Black Hat) sect: Who is the rightful 17th Karmapa? Is it the New Delhi Karmapa, Trinley Thaye Dorje? Or is it the Tibetan Karmapa-Ugyen Trinley Dorje-endorsed by the Dalai Lama...
...TRAVEL Sikkim: Gagging for Adventure...
...REMEMBRANCE Just a short walk from drab, downtown Gangtok is the nostalgic Nor-Khill Hotel, tel: (91-3592) 225637. Built by the Chogyal (King) of Sikkim in 1932 as a guesthouse for visiting dignitaries, it's a stunning example of old-school Sikkimese architecture. And its red pillars, peaked roof and intricate carvings are a huge contrast to the concrete blocks of modern Gangtok. Whiling away an afternoon on the terrace is a pleasant diversion from shopping for handicrafts. It also offers a chance to bump into celeb guests like Bollywood star Danny Dengzopa or the Dalai Lama. The Dragon...