Word: silk
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This is despite silk-smooth production, characterized by shuffling drums and occasional guitar blasts. And while Under Rug Swept will not please sticklers for graceful songwriting, grace has never been Morissette's forte. Her strength has always been her frankness, and the years haven't swept it under anything...
...Grand Hotels: La Tour Rose, for the rooms decorated by the city's best silk manufacturers, 22 rue du Boef; the Villa Florentine, in a former convent, 25 Montée StBarthélémy. is an appealing jumble of small shops and restaurants tucked into Italianate pink and ocher buildings that bear witness to Lyons' 15th and 16th century wealth. The first stock market in France opened here in 1506, and with royal patronage the city became the silk-weaving capital of Europe. The cobbled streets of Vieux Lyons are connected by closed alleys called traboules. Originally just...
...Terreaux is by Auguste Bartholdi, sculptor of the Statue of Liberty. Traboule down from Croix-Rousse to one of the city's bouchons, simple bistros named after the straw plugs once used as bottle-stoppers. For a taste of the local gastronomic specialty of cervelles de canut (literally, silk-worker's brains) - fresh white cheese mixed with crème fraîche and herbs - try Garet, Chez Hugon or Le Musée, where the three Laverrière sisters maintain a 40-year family tradition. There's updated fare at the Boeuf d'Argent, Fleur...
...medieval and Renaissance Vieux Lyons on the banks of the Saône to the narrow 17th and 18th century Presqu'île, or peninsula, between the Saône and the Rhône. On the left is the smaller hill of Croix-Rousse, the 19th century silk worker's center, and beyond the Rhône the 20th century business district of Part-Dieu...
...count 'em - stacked Mona Lisas. In the same room are multiples of Monroe, Elvis Presley, the Statue of Liberty and Elizabeth Taylor. Warhol first painted Monroe after her suicide in August 1962. Instead of a recent photograph, he used a film still from nearly 10 years before. The flat silk-screen technique crookedly applies green eyeshadow and scarlet lipstick, like a magazine illustration of this season's makeup trends. Warhol's paintings "have the color of a shiny new car in the '50s and '60s," says De Salvo, the kind "used by advertisers to attract people to their products, [that...