Word: silk
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...also produced, in the spirit of old-master quotation that ran through his silk-screened work in the early 1960s, a suite of variations on well-known paintings: Botticelli's Venus, that hardy standby of the Pop sensibility the Mona Lisa, and Gustave Courbet's rosy, meaty image of two lesbians-one of them Whistler's mistress-sprawled in amorous sleep. At times, as in All Abordello Doze 3, 1982, the degree of interference by overprinting, cutting and juxtaposition almost buries the motif in a landslide of variations, and yet Rauschenberg's close, laconic grasp...
...King. Worth, Doucet, Callot Soeurs, Poiret: the great fashion houses are all represented with gowns and dresses that seem to challenge, in some cases even exceed, the outer limits of craftsmanship. Who would have thought it possible for a bodice to be shaped in such a way, or for silk to fall so unhurriedly, like a dove on a light wind? The clothes of this period were an exercise in sensual extravagance, not only of highflying technical virtuosity but of high-flown social aggression. A gown by Worth was more effective than a quip that silenced a rival. Its beauty...
...promotion. Then, as now, concern about prices seemed paramount. The catalogue promised nifty bargains to customers who made a $7.50 purchase-for example, a 26-piece silver-plate tableware set for $4.99. A number of other items look no less alluring. You needed garters to hold them up, but silk stockings were 78?. In pre-diet conscious America, there were 2-lb. fruitcakes selling for 49?, and 4 Ibs. of mixed nuts cost 79?. A man's cotton-broadcloth shirt sold for $1.69, and a wool sweater for $1.95. For women, black leather oxfords cost...
...1890s offered Lounging Coats, Smoking Jackets and Negligee Coats at $6.50 for those planning to entertain at home. If he chose to venture outside, the man about town sported gloves of choice skins and correct shades, each pair selling for one dollar. Other gentlemanly accessories included silk neckwear at 50 cents a piece...
...tossed head over heels by the giant hoop earrings she always wears, Hunter never belts out a song. Instead, she unwraps it, slowly and artfully. Her voice is deeper and more mellow than it was 50 years ago, not rough but grainy and textured. It is wool rather than silk and as warm and comfortable as Grandmother's blanket...