Word: silk
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...known for having opened up the tracts of imagery that were occupied in the '60s by Pop art. But as one goes through the show, skillfully boiled down by the Smithsonian's curator of 20th century painting, Walter Hopps, from Rauschenberg's enormous and dispersed output of combines, paintings, silk screens, sculptures and prints, it becomes plain that there has not been much antiformalist American art that Rauschenberg's prancing, careless and fecund talent did not either hint at or directly provoke. It is to him that is owed much of the basic cultural assumption that a work...
...work all afternoon and evening, dinner never earlier than midnight. "You can't imagine," he cackles, "how many disturbances I miss out on down here." This landscape offers the clue to his recent work, beginning with the Hoarfrosts and continuing through Jammers, a series of delicate sewn constructions of silk, twine and rattan cane. They are without pretension, and hardly displace air at all. They read as a shimmer of color, sails in the light. Off the beach, past the rattling leaves of the sea grapes, two ambiguous planes meet: the shallow coastal water, slicked with weed, taking the light...
...Tangier it's easy to become engrossed admiring the approaching scenery and to ignore one's fellow passengers--dispirited, unromantic, impoverished North African laborers. It's tempting to affect an eighteenth-century gentleman merchant's self-esteem when brought mint tea and invited to inspect carpets and bolts of silk in a Moroccan bazaar. But the rotting garbage in the streets is probably more typical of the real East. And to queries about the nature of those mysterious blue crystals in the burlap sack, the reply, translated, will be: "Detergent...
...shoulder like a toga or slide over the head, poncho fashion. His hemlines dip gracefully into handkerchief points. Emanuel Ungaro's Moroccan striped minidresses are bloused at the hips with yarn belts and designed to be worn over red or green tights. Karl Lagerfeld's silk versions for Chloe look like babydolls without the bottoms...
...rejected the military career planned for him in favor of a bohemian life. During the 1920s and '30s, he worked in Paris along with Picasso, Braque and Matisse, then returned to Brazil to paint bright, bold, cubist landscapes and sensuous mulatto women whose skin, he said, "is silk and reflects...