Word: silk
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...work. But with the help of native guides such as Rahimi, Great Game founders Jonathan Bean and Andre Mann, who fell in love with the region as backpackers in the late 1990s, have developed a daylong itinerary that encompasses the city's 5th century foundations, its role as a Silk Road caravansary, its 16th century revival under the great Mughal Emperor Babur and its recent troubles. Encircled by the snowcapped Hindu Kush, Kabul is a small city, with its history compressed. As a result, Buddhist stupas are hidden in Muslim graveyards, and elaborate Afghan façades can be glimpsed...
...From there, the tour plunges straight into the heart of the old city, where the centuries-old Shor bazaar has changed little from the days when it was thronged with Silk Road traders. In the narrow, twisting alleyways of the bird market, drab mud-brick shops burst with the vibrant plumage of parakeets and fighting quails, while the air is filled with the bright chatter of songbirds, the favored pets of Kabul residents. Handcrafted bamboo and wire cages, festooned with glass beads, dangle from every doorway, and the fragrance of cardamom-laced green tea beckons passersby into tiny chai shops...
...game. Thanks to design guru Jacques Garcia's recent lavish upgrades, a leopard-print carpet now snakes through the six-story spiral stairwell, pictured. Coupled with chef Philippe Belissent's menu, the intimate Belle Epoque restaurant and bar, all done up in jewel-toned velvet and silk, are now the perfect setting for a seduction. Every room is lush, but each room is unique: the tangerine and cream No. 36 features a mirrored Art Deco bed and dressing table once belonging to the French singer Mistinguett. The mahogany-laden No. 16 witnessed Wilde's demise and now displays a green...
...have to combine fabrics," Uslenghi explains. "You bond different fabrics, fuse them together." Looking even further ahead, to spring 2008, he says textile mills are using lots of sculpting and etching techniques that create a kind of bas-relief effect on fabric. A traditional, rich fabric like silk shantung, for example, will be woven with very coarse yarn and linen hemp so that the surface looks embroidered, "almost in an arte povera way," Uslenghi says...
...sometimes the process is not as smooth as she envisions, and last-minute mishaps can cause snags in the creative process. For the spring 2007 Miu Miu show, for example, Prada had the idea?researched in her historical archives?of using a heavy, old-fashioned, expensive silk satin. "We printed so much, and afterward we realized that only one worked," she says. In the end she created an entire collection out of two fabrics: printed satin and plain satin. "We reprinted them three days before the show! It was a big drama...