Word: silke
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...quite light and airy enough. The costumes, also by Georgiadis and supervised by Anna Watkins, are breathtaking, not only sumptuous but redolent of a royal fantasy. The stage is filled with personages who could stroll the mirrored corridors of a palace. The Queen, for instance, wears a lyrical ivory silk dress, inspired by a Van Dyck portrait of Charles I's French wife, to her child's 16th birthday party; when she wakes from a magic spell a century later, she is in an 18th century pannier court costume to preside at the wedding...
Hamnett, 39, has a deft hand for funk, and her clothes for men and women look lived-in even when they are freshly pressed, like something hung on a wooden peg behind the back door. She works largely and most successfully in utilitarian fabrics: cotton drill, lining silk and, for the coming season, leather that seems to have been ridden over by a motorcycle gang on a rainy Sunday. Her lines are loose and simple, the detailing fine and witty and heavy on the pockets. The clothes are not remakes of hardy perennials like parkas and biker jackets, but revisions...
Hamnett's influence is strong all over the fashion range, from the well- crafted intricacies of Marithe and Francois Girbaud to the heavy assimilations of Go Silk, a new American line that seems to have been entirely inspired by Hamnett's deft work with lining fabric. "I was called 'possibly the most copied designer working today' in the Observer," Hamnett reflects, managing to sound proud and a touch rueful at the same time. Her clothes are available all around the U.S., but the fullest range can be found at the designer's showcase store on London's Brompton Road. Originally...
...from some fellow at the not-so-nearly-prestigious institution of higher education which claims to exist in California. The author claimed to be the editor of some humor magazine called the Stanford Chaparral. Fearing another rejection letter, I tucked it into the pocket of my silk robe and commanded one of the rickshaw drivers outside the Castle to escort me back to my palacial suite in Eliot House...
...Iron and Silk is not so much a treatise on modern Chinese mores as a series of telling vignettes. When a clerical worker at the college committed suicide, her funeral could not be held or her family consoled until, four days later, local Communist Party officials announced that "her problems were personal and not political." Salzman killed a rat in his classroom, and his students merrily escorted him and his quarry to the local Rat Collection Office, where he was entitled to a 5 cents bounty. A young man teaching Salzman calligraphy was surprised when the American confided that...