Word: silke
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With his new collection, Armani introduces fancy-free outfits for work and play. There is hardly a skirt in the show. The emphasis is on pants: quilted, pleated, tucked and cuffed bermudas, knee-length culottes with upward-curving hems, knickers and quilted pantskirts. They are worn in daytime with silk or satin blouses, strictly tailored jackets, capes and large T-shaped wool ponchos. Many of Armani's favorite colors-shades of beige, brown, rust, taupe, gray, black, traces of cobalt blue-are subtly combined in a single ensemble. Favorite materials for pants and jackets are houndstooth checks, herringbone tweeds...
After a visit to Japan last year and exposure to Kurosawa's film Kagemusha, Armani has given a new look to his more exotic clothes: smocked leather samurai jackets, ballooning silk pants, kimono-inspired collars, obi sashes and details taken from ceremonial robes. "It's true I was influenced by Japan," says Armani. "But the real inspiration is born when you examine what you did last season and try to sharpen your focus, softening a line that was too rigid, changing a color that was too hard." As a former fabric designer, Armani starts every collection by putting...
...vehicle for that network is his Family Planning Services, an organization funded by the Thai government and private grants from foundations in Japan, Canada and the U.S. The group has recruited residents of 16,000 villages to peddle pills and condoms: rice farmers, shopkeepers, silk weavers, fruit vendors, at least one undertaker and a golf caddy. "They are all respected people in the community," he says. "They are trusted." The volunteer family planners also help run Mechai's nonpregnancy agricultural credit program, which offers low-cost loans to farmers who avoid pregnancy until the loan is repaid...
...fiancée of the Prince of Wales, she left the island gasping. Attending a benefit recital at the Goldsmiths' Hall -close to St. Paul's Cathedral, where the royal couple will be married July 29-the Queen-to-be stepped out in a strapless, black silk-taffeta evening gown that radiated a wolf-whistle glamour not associated with Britain's ruling ladies for generations. (But certainly in the tradition of England's first Princess of Wales, the fair wife of Edward, the Black Prince. Holding forth in English-ruled Bordeaux in the 1360s, the Princess...
...almost all civilized and basically decent. They do not need to worry about money. The women, in particular, share a gilded past as "the beautiful daughters of the nervous well-to-do." One remembers: "We were comfortable wherever we went, since anywhere was just like home: the same silk curtains, good oil paintings in heavy gold frames, big pantries and good food, chintz sofas, colored cooks and walnut coffee tables . . ." The girls grow out of these comfortable surroundings and into equally comfortable jobs. They become illustrators or work in bookstores or publishing houses. The men they meet and sometimes marry...