Word: silke
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Like Ford and Brezhnev, Europe's Big Four representatives had an impressive supporting cast. Although France was a defeated power, it was ably served by its adroit, persuasive Foreign Minister, Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord-whom Napoleon had once called "a piece of dung in a silk stocking," presumably because of his tendency to shift allegiances. Also present were some 32 minor German princes, representatives of the Pope, the Sultan of Turkey and numerous special interest groups (including the Jews of Frankfurt). They were accompanied by an extravagant collection of wives, mistresses and servants, and so much...
...value-nobody since Marcel Duchamp had been so flat and matter-of-fact. Warhol presented a row of stenciled Coca-Cola bottles as a work of art, turned out a series of 32 Campbell's soup cans differing only in color and the flavor printed on their labels, silk-screened the same photo of Marilyn Monroe or Liz Taylor over and over. One could find these passive, no-comment images either dumb or threatening, according to taste; and despite Warhol's own efforts to dispel it, a belief grew that somewhere behind his dark glasses a social critic...
...field day redecorating workers' uniforms and baggy pants, overblouses and quilted jackets. The style might be called Mao a la mode. Now, with the fall collections, American couturiers have gone from paddy to palace, digging deep into the treasure chest of Imperial China. Result: high-collared mandarin robes, silk jacquard jackets, sable-lined evening coats of old damask and golden-scrolled pajamas, all done up in poesies of color pirated from the Orient (see color opposite...
Today the designer who has most faithfully interpreted classic Chinese styles is a Cuban-born American: Adolfo. His fall collection is heavy on crocheted pajamas and slim, high-collared cheongsam dresses in clingy silk knits with side buttoning and frog fasteners down the front. The look, Adolfo allows, "is very sexy. It is cut to show the fanny, and if you have a little tummy, it shows that too. Men like it very much." So does the Duchess of Windsor, who was carried away by a polka-dotted sheath at an Adolfo show...
Despite all the entertaining distractions and intellectual feints, The Fight only adds up to Norman Mailer honorably going about the business of making his living. Covering a sport that seems to hold less and less interest for Americans calls for all his savvy. But even Mailer cannot make a silk purse out of a cauliflower...