Word: sirloin
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...Buddy's Sirloin...
...Bartley's Burger Cottage was the place to get a hamburger in the Square. But the hamburgers there have shrunk and the price has swelled, and unless you have a passion for the exotic (Radcliffe Burgers, Swiss Cheese Burgers, Mushroom Burgers), the mantle has shifted to Buddy's Sirloin...
Hans Schenk, a Swiss chef who once worked for Hughes, describes the invariable menu: two 20-oz. sirloin-strip steaks with all fat removed, boiled peas, carrots and green beans, followed by vanilla ice cream and cake. A Hughes aide would appear in the kitchen and watch to make sure that Schenk scrubbed his hands and fingernails. "I would cook his steak with a stop watch," Schenk recalls. "He wanted it medium rare, eight or nine minutes of the grill. He'd notice if it was a minute overdone." If Hughes was on the phone when dinner was served...
Would you pass up that tender, delicious sirloin (see picture at right) for a soybean ham omelette...
...these are excellent sports in their ways, but to the average American they bear about the same satisfying relationship to real football as chopped liver does to rare sirloin, or 3.2 beer to a belt of bourbon. Real football, for nine out of ten, is the pro variety. High school football is nice, if you enjoy seeing beardless adolescents trying to cripple each other. College football can be fun-picnics on the tailgate, and lots of juiced-up nostalgia -but the game itself is static, sloppy and full of mistakes. No. For the true fan, only the pro game will...