Word: skirtings
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...short, short skirt is back-and no one's complaining...
...those optimists who believe that stock prices and hemlines rise simultaneously, the sidewalks and store windows will provide ample reason for rejoicing this spring. From Rome's Via Veneto to Beverly Hills' Rodeo Drive, the skirt has moved above the knee. In fact, the miniskirt is back. At Filene's department store in Boston, where one-fourth of all higher-priced junior sales are now minis, Buyer Ann Freedberg exults, "They look right. The timing is right." At the young women's department of Galeries Lafayette, the big Parisian department store, minis are this season...
Most of the new minis are fuller and more feminine than the tight, boxy '60s style. "Flippy" is the word used by some skirt watchers. Says New York's Cuban-born designer Adolfo: "The old minis looked like clothes that had been chopped off at the bottom. Now they are different, looser." Adds Milan's Giorgio Armani: "The new miniskirt is not stiff and straight but soft, fitted at the hips and gathered for a short volume effect. It is also a natural evolution toward femininity after the dizzying circus of pants, knickers, Bermudas, gauchos and Zouaves...
Those early minis were also something of a joke, of course. Some Quant creations consisted of less material than a Victorian hanky and-at eleven inches above the knee-barely covered the area once reserved for underwear. On the way up from the pert Chelsea shopgirl look, the ultrashort skirt was given the imprimatur of couture by Parisian Designer André Courrèges in the middle '60s. The mini's bon voyage across the Atlantic was largely the work of Enfant Terrible Rudi Gernreich, who was not only the first U.S. designer to bare the thigh...
...says. "Not that I begrudged her a chance to shine before an audience, but it was my part." Now she is preserving it against the fender-gluing tedium of film making, with its rhythm of endless delays. Between takes on the set, she hikes her white Victorian hobble skirt up to her knees so that she can sit down in it, finds her place in Henry James' Portrait of a Lady, and until a hand appears between page and eyes-a makeup woman minutely improving Mabel's face-she reads subtle paragraphs about Americans abroad...