Word: skirtsful
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One key to the change lies in France's exquisite fabrics-luxuriant silk, crepe de chine, shantung, georgette, satin. These are meticulously cut and joined, often on the diagonal introduced in the 1920s by Madeleine Vionnet -who is inactive but still alert at 97. The "bias cut" makes clothes...
Eye to Provocation. The 1930s theme was echoed by every Paris couturier from Givenchy, Balmain, Scherrer and Lapidus to Dior, St. Laurent and Chanel. Marc Bohan, Dior's successor, set the early pace. His skirts were long and supple. His jackets, closed at the waist with a narrow belt...
Yves St. Laurent accented femininity even in suits tailored in men's checkered or pin-stripe fabrics. They are worn with print, tie-neck, full blouses that ease into soft yokes in back and bands at wrist or elbow. St. Laurent's beloved tunic reappeared, belted over wide...
Although the Chanel styles never stray far from Founder Coco's ideal of refinement, this season's collection caused controversy. Designed by Disciples Jean Cazaubon and Yvonne Dudel, the line ran to vaporous chiffon gowns, gored skirts, lingerie-style blouses. But instead of the calf-length skirt that...
Despite the strong emphasis on the dress, the couturiers offered plenty of pants. Many buyers were especially impressed by Givenchy's creations in black crepe. Often heavily cuffed, they were so loose, free and floppy that they looked almost like skirts when in motion. Says Sidney Gittler of Ohrbach...