Word: smells
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...most successful products, of course, use these thousands of scents in perfumes. In 1996, Estée Lauder's Clinique brand wanted to put joy in a bottle. What does happiness smell like? IFF's smell scientists have been studying the psychological and physiological responses evoked by fragrances since 1983, so they answered that question with research rather than poetry. They blended dozens of scent notes from flowers, herbs, plants and fruits and tried them on hundreds of test subjects. The citrus-heavy perfumes were consistently associated with joy, well-being and, well, happiness. Clinique Happy, which has earned a queen...
...perfect scent isn't worth anything, though, until it leaves the laboratory. To capture and translate the smell of a plant for consumers, IFF relies on a kind of camera for smell. The bell-shaped glass tool captures a living plant's "headspace": the air surrounding it. Using chromatography and mass spectrometry, scientists analyze the captured molecules, and computer programs help map out the plants' primary components. Most have between 60 and 120, with as many as 100 minor notes. Developers re-create the smell using natural or synthetic oils. To do that, IFF draws on a rotating...
Fragrance makers are using this long history of intensive research and development to expand their markets by introducing scent into unexpected places. IFF, for example, has embedded lavender and chamomile in pillows for Marks & Spencer and has woven the smell of "clean" into socks for Target. The textiles in these products use microcapsules filled with scent that lingers even after dozens of washings. Another recent innovation from IFF resulted in smell-blocking garbage bags...
...instance. Givaudan is also developing low-sodium, low-sugar and low-fat flavors intended to replicate the taste and texture of their full-figured counterparts. "We know how ice cream needs to taste to please an Italian, American or a Swede," says Givaudan spokesman Peter Wullschleger. "Taste and smell are cultural...
However tough the competition, the industry is united in one concern. Development, says Subrenat of the World Perfumery Congress, is endangering its raw materials. India has lost thousands of acres of its sweet-smelling sandalwood trees, for instance, over the past decades. If that trend continues, it will be even harder for fragrance-and-flavor companies to develop the next blockbuster smell or taste. Already, for every five to 10 samples perfumers dream up and perfect, just one generates a sale...