Word: snoot
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...sauce. The empty bowl offered for shells was nowhere near the capacity needed to account for the volume of sucked-dry detritus that remained after the mussels were finished. Empty mussel shells were scattered around the table like fallout, creating unsightly wet patches in the crisp white paper tablecloth. Snoot is hard-sought at Alloro, however--the waiter seemed thrilled at our animalistic enjoyment of the food. A third appetizer seemed impossible to pass up. The only glaringly untraditional dish on the menu, the grilled shrimp on fennel salad is the last vestige of Alloro's former image. Four enormous...
...recognition that the river is a finite resource has been slow to dawn in the West, where rugged individualists have traditionally cocked a snoot at natural restrictions, rolled up their sleeves and hacked or drilled the world of their dreams out of the wilderness. Something in the Western temperament strives mightily to deny that much of the region is a desert -- witness the tropical extravagance of Beverly Hills, the emerald golf courses of Palm Springs, the ubiquitous swimming pools throughout the West...
What the guide expects you to do is shoot the line out 60 ft. or 70 ft., drop the fly (a vulgar tuft of feathers and Mylar) some 5 ft. in front of the tarpon's snoot and start stripping it in. The fish will then charge the fly, you will strike, and it's showtime! So much for utopia...
Fast-forward to the summer of 1990: F.H.'s grandson is becalmed in his office, postponing chores by reading the New York Times food page. Abruptly, one of memory's custard pies sails out of a time warp and hits me in the snoot. The Times describes a fine restaurant, called the Tapawingo, serving cassoulet of morels, and veal with forest fettucine, dinners $22 to $32 with first course and salad, in -- SPLAT! -- Ellsworth, Mich. My reaction is dismay. Ellsworth doesn't belong in the Times. It belongs in my earliest memories, where it has been for the 40 years...