Word: snows
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...Found great dificuelty in keeping it," wrote Clark on Sept. 16, "as in maney places the snow had entirely filled up the track." The expedition was having a miserable time. Clark wrote he was as "wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life." Lewis had calculated that the 33-member party needed four deer a day to feed itself. The hunters killed only five deer over 11 days, plus a stray horse, a dozen grouse, a duck and a coyote...
...members of the expedition had bonded so strongly that there were none of the discipline problems that the captains had faced in the first part of the trip. "There is something compelling about being on a lucky expedition," says Galli as we stop for a drink of melted snow...
...luck too is holding with the weather, although the snow keeps getting deeper. As we climb to Indian Post Office, the highest point on the trail at 7,033 ft., the drifts are 15 ft. and up. We have covered 13 miles in soft snow, and we barely have enough energy to make dinner. After a meal of chicken and couscous, I sit on a rock outcrop on top of the ridge. There is no light visible in any direction, not even another campfire. For four days we do not see another human being. We are isolated...
...push on, and shortly after noon we reach Howard Camp, where Fairchild draws water from the same Howard Creek that Lewis and Clark did. The sun and the altitude are making us light-headed. By late afternoon we have descended to Saddle Camp at 5,300 ft., where the snow is as mushy as a daiquiri. An old logging road runs across the ridge, reminding us that remote as we think we are, the loggers have been here before us. Every so often we see the scar of an old clear-cut a couple of ridges from the trail...
Lewis and Clark were under no illusions about being the first to discover the Rockies. Everywhere they went they found traces of Indian tribes. We leave Saddle Camp shortly after dawn, while the snow is still firm, and walk 4 miles up to the Smoking Place, a peak with a 360[degree] view that was sacred to the Indians and was graced then--as now--with stone cairns. The Nez Perce who guided the expedition's return in June 1806 insisted they stop at the peak and smoke a pipe. Lewis was enraptured: "From this place we had an extencive...