Word: soba
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...checklist. I shoved my diary into the hands of HCAP Japan’s former president and demanded he draw a gastronomic map of Tokyo. I was more than a little overzealous, but my requests turned up little. My survey yielded a suggestion to find “real soba, real udon, real ramen,” (a pointer as specific as “find a real hot dog in New York”) and an arrow in my journal pointing to Osaki, a small district in western Tokyo where the best ramen bar supposedly existed. The only concrete...
...noodle bar. The ramen noodles, which are served in a traditional large bowl with a mini-ladle, swim in various soups that make them wonderfully conducive to slurping. The kare noodles, which come in a coconut-based soup, are uneventful but satisfying. Your best bet is the moyashi soba (whole wheat), #27. It’s $10, vegetarian, and good for you, despite the blatant lack of seasoning. The rice dishes are dubious at best, and overall, the food looks better than it tastes. However, in the case of the yasai katsu curry (#72), there is nothing appetizing about...
...effort to preserve the country's culinary culture, schools have begun promoting "food education" - teaching students Japanese eating habits. Children take time out of math and science to visit a farmer harvesting rice, or learn to prepare buckwheat soba noodles - a favorite Japanese dish -from scratch. But critics like Iwamura and Ehara say the classes have more to do with promoting Japan's inefficient and politically protected farming sector than cooking or eating. The reality is that as long as increasing numbers of Japanese have to be at work or school until late at night, there...
...SoHo soba house Honmura An, raw shrimp “melted beneath the teeth with the lush generosity of milk chocolate.” She describes eating Sayori, an extremely rare sashimi, at Kurumazushi: “It was smooth and slick against my tongue, with a clear, transparent flavor and the taut crispness of a tart green apple.” Unfortunately, it wasn’t all soba and sushi during Reichl’s tenure at The Times...
GARLIC AND SAPPHIRES RUTH REICHL When Reichl became the New York Times' food critic in 1993, she swiftly set about dismantling the work of her predecessors. To pages previously devoted to fussy French cuisine she introduced Japanese soba and Korean bulgoki, and she handed out stars to places earlier critics wouldn't have gone to wearing surgical gloves. She wore disguises so she could experience the service that ordinary people (i.e. non-food critics) get. Reichl writes dazzlingly about food, of course, but she also explores how liberating it can be to dress up as somebody else. She liberates...