Word: soba
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...Soba Express, a Harvard Square fast food restaurant serving pan-Asian cuisine, permanently closed its doors Wednesday after seven years of operation...
...beyond the midtown sushi bars and into restaurants no diner would label Japanese, where the chefs are blond and the menus are in English. Kitchens are likely to begin a meal with salted edamame (soybean) in place of dinner rolls, serve fish raw rather than deep-fried and use soba instead of linguine. Sometimes the influence is as subtle as a drop of lemony ponzu whisked into a vinaigrette; other times it's as in-your-face as mashed potatoes creamed with wasabi, a dish so ubiquitous it's become a clichE. So many of the finest New York chefs...
...rail-thin servers dressed in black glide around the three-story space, carrying lacquered trays of fanciful sushi combinations no Japanese diner would recognize. The sushi chefs, young Japanese expats, add to the din by shouting orders in unison. A Hispanic chef creates the hot entrées - like soba risotto in smoked-trout butter under a mountain of shaved bonito flakes. "You see," says Moore proudly, "it's nothing like those places in midtown...
RUNNER-UP: Noodles: The New Way by Sri Owen (Villard; $24.95) Grab your chopsticks! Egg noodles, rice noodles and soba noodles never looked as delicious as they do here. Take a twirl...
...Employees at Ma Soba's extinguished a minor fire, which caused no damage...