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...answering machine at his 60-acre ranch in Sonoma County, Calif., Keen sings Cole Porter's Don't Fence Me In. Keen grew up in Alabama, Tennessee and Delaware ("more Huck Finn than Holden Caulfield," he says in his high- pitched foghorn of a voice) and has a doctorate in philosophy of religion from Princeton. His thesis concerned the idea of mystery. "I've always been interested in talking clearly about things that can never really be known," he says...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Bang The Drum Quickly | 7/8/1991 | See Source »

...winemakers who have planted such Italian varietals as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese; Tancer intends to blend his Sangiovese with Cabernet or Merlot in new proprietary wines similar to ones being produced in Tuscany. There is a certain irony here. Investment banker William Hambrecht, who sells the Zinfandel grapes from his Sonoma ranch to Ridge Vineyards, notes that many of these newly fashionable varietals were first planted in California at the century's turn by Italian immigrants for their homemade table wines...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: A Golden Age for Grapes | 12/10/1990 | See Source »

...California, as in Europe, winemaking has historically been a male prerogative. No longer. Inspired and encouraged by Mary Ann Graf and then Zelma Long at Sonoma's Simi Winery, a number of women have taken up the vinting craft, and are increasingly making their talents known. Kristin Belair, 31, a graduate of the University of California at Davis, is a newcomer to reckon with: the Wine Spectator rated her 1986 Johnson Turnbull Cabernet Sauvignon 13th on its recent list of 100 "Hottest Wines." "Winemaking is a nice mix of art and science," she says. "I really like blending...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: A Golden Age for Grapes | 12/10/1990 | See Source »

...well known to oenophiles as those of celebrity chefs are to ardent foodies. Sometimes their comings and goings provide rich material for gossip. Five days before the start of this year's harvest, Lake County's ambitious Kendall- Jackson Vineyard hired away John Hawley, the chief vintner at Sonoma's Clos du Bois. That was the sneaky equivalent of a chic bistro's signing up a rival's chef two hours before Saturday dinnertime. (Hawley's successor at Clos du Bois, as it happens, is another promising distaff vintner, Margaret Davenport...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: A Golden Age for Grapes | 12/10/1990 | See Source »

...predict that the increase could reduce wine consumption by 12% and lead to the loss of 7,000 jobs. The tax hike comes at a time when many growers are also worried about phylloxera, a mite-size plant louse that is gnawing away at vines, primarily in Napa and Sonoma counties. An estimated 250 acres have been affected so far, and replanting with new phylloxera-resistant vines may cost upwards of $250 million in Napa Valley alone...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Food: A Golden Age for Grapes | 12/10/1990 | See Source »

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