Word: souped
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Wolfert believes that the southwest has more varieties of soup than all the rest of France. The greatest, though little known outside the region, is garbure, a creation of cabbage, beans, salt pork and endless embellishments. In Wolfert's interpretation it becomes a thick stew enriched with preserved duck or goose, ham hock and garlic sausage. Among other distinctive potages, she stirs up a modern version of a traditional Basque soup called ttoro and an oyster velouté with black caviar made from Gironde River sturgeon...
Some of the most satisfying of all supersoups are American: New England chowders, Louisiana gumbo, Philadelphia pepper pot, California cioppino, for which Ivens has traditional prescriptions. Ivens also contributes such variants as lamb and split pea soup (adding a Middle Eastern flavor with mint, dill and yogurt), a soup of short ribs and lentils, and another made with beef and beans. A summer classic rarely seen on U.S. menus is Portugal's caldo verde, a delicate blend of kale, potatoes and sausage. One chapter is devoted to vegetable potages, including the soupe au pistou of southern France, Italian garbanzo...
...hold the stew! Can the soup! The name of Carol Cutler's new cookbook says it all: Pâté, the New Main Course for the '80s (Rawson; $14.95). Cutler, who is chief American consultant for TIME-LIFE Books' Good Cook series and the author of three previous cookbooks, maintains that most pates and terrines (the terms here are used almost interchangeably) are too filling, too important to serve as a first course. And she effectively demolishes the myths that they are fattening, costly and difficult to make. Pâtés have another great...
...haddock baked in yogurt sauce. Jaffrey describes a technique by which the home cook can simulate the tandoori-style dishes offered by so many Indian restaurants without investing in the expense of a clay oven. And she has the definitive recipe (among dozens) for mulligatawny, the classic Anglo-Indian soup...
...delightful A la Russe (Random House; $16.95). The 15 Soviet republics have an extraordinarily diverse cuisine, embracing the cookery of Eastern Europe and Central Asia, representing regions from the Black Sea to the Arctic Circle, reflecting tsarist extravagance and peasant reality. (Goldstein will follow a recipe for sturgeon soup with champagne, a favorite of Catherine the Great, with ukha, a fisherman's broth.) The author learned many dishes from her grandmother, an emigre from Byelorussia; and in her great-grandfather's butcher shop, she writes, "Marc Chagall played as a child." An assistant professor of Russian literature...