Word: sourdoughs
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...these days are trekking to local bakeries and specialty shops -- often braving long lines and empty bins -- in search of gourmet loaves of all sizes and shapes: rosemary, garlic and poppy wands with a crackling-hard crust; dense bricks dotted with specks of flax, sunflower and sesame seeds; onion sourdough baguettes; and mammoth 4-lb. pumpkin-like affairs made from live, wild cultures. "Bread is being rescued from oblivion," says Michael London, owner of Rock Hill Bakehouse in Greenwich, N.Y. "It's as if it had been locked up in a closet somewhere for years...
Food mavens see the upper-crust movement as part of a growing American interest in fine cuisine. "About 15 years ago, a food revolution began in this country, starting with the main course," says Eli Zabar, whose New York City gourmet shop, E.A.T., makes 4,000 chewy sourdough baguettes daily. "Then it moved to the appetizer, then dessert. We have finally gotten around to bread. It's happening everywhere." Jerome Kliejunas, owner of Chicago's Jerome's cafe, agrees. "In the past," he says, "bread was seen as an accompaniment to other foods and in the background...
...intriguing are caper berries from Spain, which have the same piquant tingle as the smaller, more familiar caper. Attached to their stems, these berries could become the status garnish of the year, perhaps replacing olives or lemon twists in martinis. Finnish bakers have a way with malty, palate-scrubbing sourdough rye crisp breads; the latest welcome entry is Kings Bread, crackling thin and cut into elegantly long and narrow shapes. No less delicious and even more delicate are the translucent golden Swiss Cocktail Wafers made by HUG, equally good seasoned with caraway or cheese...
...rush of '86 is considerably different from that of the late 1970s and early 1980s. Back then, when the price of gold soared to $850 per oz., dozens of small operators and thousands of individual prospectors jumped into the hunt. Most of those revenants of the sourdough era have since disappeared in an industry shake-out that began in the early 1980s, as the value of gold headed downward. The boom is now mostly confined to large, well-financed firms that were initially attracted by gold's higher price. With gold currently selling at more than...
...apparently timeless, nonregional appeal is the Reuben, a grilled combination of sauerkraut, corned beef and Swiss cheese served on sourdough pumpernickel. This pungent creation has been attributed to Reuben Kay, a wholesale grocer in Omaha who invented it for a weekly poker group. Another theory gives credit to Arnold Reuben, whose New York restaurant, a superdeli of the '40s and '50s, featured lofty and complex sandwiches named for celebrity regulars. One example: a combination of cream cheese, bar-le-duc (white currant jam), tongue and sweet pickles on whole wheat was inexplicably the Frank Sinatra...