Word: southerners
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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After taking three of four games on last weekend's road trip to Princeton and Cornell, Harvard hosts the bottom two teams in the Lou Gehrig Division, which contains the four southern Ivy League schools. Paul Fernandes announced that he will step down as Columbia Head Coach at the end of this year. After losing four games to Penn, the Lions went 2-2 last weekend against Brown and Yale. The Quakers lost all four games against the Bears and the Elis...
...self-respecting Southern restaurant would shudder at the thought of portabella mushrooms and goat cheese. Any self-respecting Southern restaurant would put mesclun greens on its menu only under the very threat of death. However, this is Cambridge, where Ralph Waldo Emerson proclaimed John Brown a saint for his raid on Harper's Ferry and where the Mason-Dixon feels about as far south as the equator. Around here, good Southern cooking is as hard to find as the old Stars and Bars. But who really cares, when the result of a fusion of Southern and yuppie cuisine...
...telling physical landmark of the restaurant, however, is the immense, brightly colored mural in the style of Diego Rivera which wraps around behind the bar and open kitchen. In it, merry people amuse themselves beneath strands of Spanish moss, dangling over the fancy wrought-iron balconies and balustrades of Southern gothic buildings. All drink and laugh profusely, and all are glaringly white. The image is a perfect metaphor for the cuisine. Magnolias strives to emulate New Orleans, but a piece of its heart will always be in New Canaan...
...true Southern style, we decided to order enough food for 12. None of it proved disappointing. The veggie plate is billed as an entree, but it proved the perfect appetizer to share, offering a sample of every vegetable on the menu. Arranged artfully on the giant platter were mashed spiced yams, mashed new potatoes, light and crispy fried green tomatoes, pencilthin sweet potato fries, black-eyed peas topping cheesy grits with tomato relish, and the inevitable nods to yuppies everywhere: mesclun greens with vinaigrette and portabella mushrooms roasted with goat cheese and walnut stuffing. Gourmandized Southern has never been...
...more New York than New Orleans--$4 to 8 appetizers, $10 to 20 entrees--but the overhead must be high to support all those mushrooms with goat cheese and seared tuna. Best of all, their menu changes seasonally, and Magnolias frequently offers theme menus that stick more to their Southern roots. For the open-minded neophytes among us, let there be flan and microbrews amongst Magnolias fried green tomatoes...