Word: soy
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...Canal Streets (964-0540): The name means big prosperity, though that's the last thing you'd expect this Chinatown eatery to be called. Almost everything on the menu costs under $5, and patrons eat cafeteria-style in a dense, tantalizing cloud of odors from the bustling kitchen. The soy sauce chicken ($5) and the barbecued spare ribs ($3) are as good as any in Chinatown...
...tables. About twenty minutes later, a group of attractive women enter the bar and a soundtrack seems to follow them. I write: "10:58: the women arrive and on comes Matchbox 20." I speak with the following people: a white B.C. girl with a tan as dark as soy sauce; a grumpy middle-aged Hong Kong security guard; and a dirty man in a Marine Corps jacket who smokes Salems and spits when he speaks. He tells me he was last stationed in Iraq and now he works on Tremont Street in the recruiting station...
...into shock or took 12 hours to wake up. (No, I'm not exaggerating; some patients with an unusual genetic condition take that long to recover.) You should also bring up any allergies you have, since some anesthetic drugs trigger cross-reactions--particularly in patients who are sensitive to soy and eggs. A small but growing trend: preoperative visits to an anesthesiology clinic where doctors can check you out more completely...
...than home) Fries ($4). The punchiness of the flavors is the truest indicator of Harvest's theme, however. Each dish boasts multiple ingredients, each with a strong presence. For instance, the Seared Rare Duck Salad ($9) comes as advertised with roasted golden beets, frisee greens and an overly assertive soy-ginger dressing. Spicy Squid "Rhode Island Style" ($8) is sweetly battered and deep fried, yet manages somehow to avoid being greasy, served in a salad of arugula, jalapeno and tomato. The vinaigrette on the greens renders the squid batter pleasantly soggy in some areas and counteracts the deep-fried taste...
...resident chef of Cafe Japonaise has a point. A soy bath drowns out the nutty taste of more delicate fish like suzuki (sea bass) or yellowtail. Crab sticks ($3) are supported by thin strips of cucumber and held together by a ribbon of seaweed on top of a gently formed and richly textured ball of rice. Velvety tuna is pounded into the texture of tartar and mixed with scallions in the Tuna and Scallion Roll ($4.50). Iridescent slabs of yellowtail arrive on a platter ($16.50) with translucent pink tuna slices, striated salmon, and a seaweed purse brimming with giant...