Word: spiral
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...even in its chosen field, its omissions-Mark Rothko, Clyfford Still, Philip Guston, Robert Motherwell. to mention only a few-are glaring. Nevertheless, the corkscrew museum's new director. Thomas Messer, last week put on a show from the collection that was a delight from the third spiral to the ground floor: an exhibition of the museum's ''old masters...
...away. The only external evidence of an underground fortress is an entrance portal, the ground-level doors over three Titan I silos, and silos containing 100-ft.-long radio antennas that rise along with the missiles and guide them on their way. At the concreted entrance tower, 13 steps spiral downward to a portal and a blastproof revolving door. Behind the door, 69 steps drop underground to a cool, yellow-painted steel tunnel 1,687 ft. long and lined with cables, pipes and tanks for water, diesel fuel and liquid oxygen...
...lines, "the oblique," "the zig-zag," and "the spiral," work at creating what the designers call "body-conscious shape." Oblique seams, side fastenings and spiral back wrappings encircle the body; simple little dresses are diagonally, often dizzily, detailed by wildly flying panels, bias cuts, tricky scarf necklines. Even Dior's Marc Bohan, who tends to flout the trends, does away with the bulky silhouette; although he concentrates less on S-lines than his colleagues, Bohan's fashions are the tightest, slenderest, most feminine of all. His decidedly youthful designs feature slim, high-bosomed bodices, gently flared skirts, wide...
...collection-the theme is "looping the loop"- shows wasp waists and a high bustline. Griffe, who claims to have "rediscovered woman," calls his shape the "jet line," fans permanent pleating out from just underneath the arms or from mid-front and back to the hem. Jacques Heim's spiral silhouette whirls across the body with slanting and circular seams; coats are flat in front with voluminous gusts of cape. Guy LaRoche fits his dresses loosely, lets his diagonal seams gently tube the body; his sleeveless evening gowns spin to the floor, cut a low V in back...
...Square Spiral. In the Indian cotton center of Ahmedabad he built two graceful villas, an office building for the Mill-owners Association, and finally the "endless museum" he had thought of 30 years before. Its plan, which was to be repeated in Tokyo, was a sort of square spiral or maze that could be expanded at will. Today he is still working on his biggest commission of all: Chandigarh, the capital of the Punjab. The Indian government hired Corbu for 4,000 rupees ($840; a month to build a whole new city to replace the old Lahore, which had been...