Word: sportswear
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...with what's on the runway. Klein's show was a poignant and powerful reminder that nothing in fashion is forever. The clothes for spring 2004 responded to that changing climate, forsaking last season's sexy, corseted silhouette for the safer harbor of pretty, soft dresses and colorful, easy sportswear pieces that make consumers feel good. And many of the most popular trends, such as flapper-style dresses and wide-cut pleated pants from designers like Marc Jacobs and Diane von Furstenberg, harked back to carefree moments in American fashion like the jazz age of the late 1920s and early...
...time to get real," said Joan Kaner, Neiman Marcus' fashion director. "Fashion is not about frivolity and shock." American fashion, of course, has never been big on risk taking. Designers in the U.S. are predictable in their dedication to sportswear, leaving shock tactics to their European colleagues. Along with predictability comes safety, a belief that certain designers--the triumvirate of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan--are fashion's bedrock. But all of a sudden there was a tectonic shift, as if Klein's departure left everything else on shifting sand...
...upside, the changes leave room for young designers like Alice Roi and Behnaz Sarafpour to step up, but they appear to be having separation anxiety. Many of their ideas echo the kind of cool, upbeat sportswear that made Klein famous in the '70s, when models like Lauren Hutton bounced off the fashion pages with little more than a gap-tooth smile and a shrugged-on pair of shorts. But the newfound--or recycled--optimism rings hollow; fashion's new generation of designers seems fettered by nerves...
...niche markets, their growing profits owe much to their skyrocketing popularity in suburban as well as urban markets. "There's a new young generation optimistic about diversity. They want to buy new America as well as old America," says Simmons, who recently teamed up with Kellwood to launch the sportswear line Def Jam University. "People look around and say, 'Where's the next Polo?' There isn't a new Polo. It's Phat Farm and JLO and Sean John. These companies are all new America...
...architect for Pacific Sun's expansion is CEO Greg Weaver, previously at retailer Jaeger Sportswear Ltd., who was brought on board in 1987 when the venture capitalists moved in. Though originally from Connecticut, Weaver has acquired the tanned skin and relaxed manner of an Orange County native. His laid-back appearance belies his intense mastery of all aspects of PacSun operations; he can recall in an instant, for example, that store No. 39 opened in Paramus...