Word: sportswear
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...ranking of the world's designer royalty, Lauren, 46, is the king of American sportswear, which in today's fashion parlance encompasses everything from swimsuits to semiformal evening wear. He reigns as the natural successor to Bill Blass and John Weitz, the first generation of U.S. celebrity designers. Lauren's chief rival, as coincidence would have it, comes from the same Bronx neighborhood. He is Calvin Klein, who has crafted an image of sizzling sexiness as singular as Lauren's aura of rich romance. But Lauren has kept ahead of his onetime neighbor in both popular and negotiable currency: Lauren...
Whatever he does next, Lauren has boosted the prestige of American sportswear at home and abroad. Says Eleanor Lambert, a longtime industry publicist: "He has grasped the solidity and the worth and the drive of American life. He is a very stabilizing influence in American fashion." The determined dreamer from the Bronx has become a special kind of design star, whose imagination is less a source of amazement than of security for his still growing audience. Says up-and-coming Designer Zack Carr: "Ralph Lauren is respected for his consistent style and intrinsic quality year after year, and I appreciate...
...copied their skirts, shapes, wraps," comments Alan Bilzerian, who sells a lot of Japanese design in his forward-looking Boston and Worcester, Mass., stores. "They have inspired the entire world and told them to get off their rears." "Their innovations," says Jessica Mitchell, vice president and fashion director for sportswear at Saks Fifth Avenue, "have become part of the language of fashion...
Meanwhile, 500 former employees of P&L Sportswear--one of Massachusetts' largest textile plants prior to its abrupt closing last December--still remain without jobs or assistance from the state. Four months after the sudden shutdown which left the workers stranded, their plight has yet to come to the notice of the city, the state, or local media--in contrast to the prompt attention given to both the recent Colonial plant and Quincy Shipyard closings...
Still, most of Milbank's judgments are canny and her enthusiasms welcome. The chapter on Claire McCardell, "the first truly American designer," is an admirable essay on the sportswear of the '40s and '50s, on which most American style is based. Equally impressive is her account of Worth's career (1858-95). In a few paragraphs, the author sketches in that formidable designer's world; he learned the art of endless invention by the necessity of dressing the ladies of the French court, who were obliged always to appear in white and never to wear the same toilette twice. Worth...