Word: squab
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Meats included stag, gazelle, kid, lamb, mutton, squab and a bird called tarru. Frequently mentioned seasonings included onions, garlic and leeks, while stews were often thickened with grains, milk, beer or animal blood. Salt was sometimes mentioned...
...popular spot is the rambling garden with flowers and yellow umbrellas. The moderately priced food has a homemade freshness, with such creations as prettily garnished salads, bright carpaccio of beef, or steamed clams, oysters and mussels in a chive + broth. Moist Dover sole, broiled with bread crumbs, and grilled squab nested on pecan-studded wild rice are fine main courses, and there are outstanding desserts, among them a little box of chocolate wrapped around framboise- moistened chocolate cake...
...menu offerings are Roux inventions -- the cloudlike cheese souffle adrift in a cream and Gruyere sauce and the succulent beef tournedos in robust red-wine sauce with an earthy hotchpotch of mushrooms. Equally delectable are Hutchings' own creations -- tender abalone in a beurre- blanc sauce with caviar, and squab mellowed in a shallot-scented Cabernet sauce...
...question of aesthetics: the American taste may be broadening, but many people still recoil from an unattractive name. So a vocabulary of euphemisms for Cinderella trash fish surfaces. Dogfish becomes grayfish or salmon shark. For opakapaka, try Hawaiian pink snapper. Blowfish are sold as sea robin or sea squab. The huge, shapeless monkfish fetches a , higher price under its French name, lotte...
Near by, other amiable smells emanate from the domain of Henry Haller, the White House chef since 1966. The strike has not affected his operation because the dressed birds for the dinner's main course-suprême of royal squab Véronique-were flown in several days earlier from New York. The choice of squab, to come between cold salmon and an intimidatingly rich dessert of fresh peach mousse cardinal, was a late decision by Nancy Reagan. The original selection had been duckling with glazed apples, but she felt that there had been too many canards...