Word: starching
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...substance’s identity? Starch...
...agreed. "We all use sugar. And sugar - sucrose - doesn't grow in the form of white grains. It has to be processed. Yet sugar is okay. Sucrose is okay. It's only when you get to maltodextrin (a group of low-molecular-weight carbohydrates produced by the hydrolysis of starch) that people start saying, 'Wait a minute, that's going too far.'" (Read a TIME story about Blumenthal's perfect day in London...
...when the recession rolled in. Sales of Spam, which comes in neither of those varieties, haven't been this big since World War II, when soldiers overseas were sent vacuum-sealed cans of cooked pork shoulder, ham, water, sugar, salt, sodium nitrite (to maintain the porcine color) and potato starch (to maintain the cat-food-like consistency...
...sautéing some little squares of Spam--for Spamghetti carbonara--he tested one and was surprised. It was pleasantly hamlike and not as salty as he had expected. And it was eerily airy. He was so confused, he grabbed the can and scanned the ingredients. It was the potato starch. That's what holds the shape but kind of melts in your mouth. He ate some more, still thrown by its lightness, and thought it would work better in a frisée-and-lardon salad, fried into light little bacony croutons. Or in a taco. "It could almost take...
...such efforts should persist. The squash problem begins with boredom caused by endless repetition—unfortunately, calling the vegetable candy roaster versus spaghetti does not change its essence—but it does not end there. Squash is not a magical food. As an additional vegetable or starch, squash provides an option to students who enjoy its smooth texture. It has no place, however, as a consistent replacement entree for vegetarians. A student who eats butternut squash soup at lunch does not necessarily want to consume red kuri squash with curry for dinner but is left with few alternatives...