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...Montana and Thierry Mugler were focused on enhancing shoulders with exaggerated padding; Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent were creating rococo fantasies of beading, silk and ruffles. Amid the froufrous and frills, Kawakubo and Yamamoto rolled out their collections and set Paris on its ear. The clothes were revolutionary, shocking - stark, unstructured and overwhelmingly black. Bewildered critics dubbed Kawakubo's first Paris collection in 1981 - with its frayed seams and misplaced armholes - "Hiroshima chic." This was a moon shot away from the padded-shoulder and pastel look paraded on Dallas. In 1985, Bernadine Morris, then a fashion critic...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: High Concept, High Stakes | 4/30/2001 | See Source »

...aggressive tactics of the Japanese paparazzi stand in stark contrast to the behavior of the designers. After her show, Rei Kawakubo doesn't come out for the customary bow. Journalists looking to go backstage to congratulate her are turned away. She also rarely grants interviews, saying the clothes should speak for themselves. This season her collection featured bulky bras worn over dresses, corsets left undone, pants that bared the bottom when models moved. The reviews, all glowing, used phrases like "whatever it meant" and "whatever she was trying to say." Says Richard Buckley, editor of Vogue Homme: "Like other artists...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: High Concept, High Stakes | 4/30/2001 | See Source »

...past, almost all of which make a negative statement about lesbians.  Though it seems odd that such derogatory images should be used in a film that is a celebration of being a lesbian, the juxtaposition of these divergent images is a stark, but very effective, contrast.  In doing so, Hammer challenges the “traditional” notions of lesbians as being “butch” and “she-males.” Overall, History Lessons is a compelling, sometimes offensive, but always unpredictable...

Author: By Sarah N. Kunz, CONTRIBUTING WRITER | Title: Boys Who Like Boys Who Like Girls Who Like... | 4/27/2001 | See Source »

...seeking abortions from prosecution. Pro-choice activists don?t find his assurances convincing and promise to mount a full-fledged attack on the bill. They see this legislation as a critical test of a new administration, a new House and a new Senate, and that passage would provide a stark indication that abortion rights are in serious trouble...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A New President — a New Path for Fetal Murder Bill? | 4/26/2001 | See Source »

...Fear is the raw material that sustains the flourishing industries of private security and social control, and it’s in steady supply.” The problem is that the book’s readers are not elementary school students asking what fear is. The stark factual style that seems reasonable when discussing facts is a bit baffling and annoying when Galeano beats the twin drums of truisms and vague generalities. No one is surprised to learn that if Chilean newspapers declared the U.S. government to be unsatisfactory, they would be ridiculed. Slogging through such a catalogue...

Author: By Konstantin P. Kakaes, CONTRIBUTING WRITER | Title: Stop the World, I Want to Get Off | 4/20/2001 | See Source »

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