Word: stewing
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...flowerpot to make a gutted tenement look cheerily affluent, it could just as well buy a decal of a large filet mignon, surrounded by heaps of buttered carrots and peas and mashed potatoes. If that seems too indulgent, perhaps simply a decal of a steaming pot of stew. That should enable quite a few families to imagine themselves well...
Ivens, who wrote the excellent Glorious Stew, whisks with authority through the steamy world of navarin, khoreshe, blanquette, ragout, jambalaya, estouffade, carbonado, col lops and pot-au-feu. She presents Italian, French and Viennese versions of Hungarian goulash, "five fragrances" stew from China, and two savory South American specialties: puchero criolla, a Latin version of New England boiled dinner, and carbonada criolla, beef stew served in a pumpkin. One notable entry is a veal stew from Jerez, Spain's sherry capital, redolent of fino; a dish from Italy is called maiale affogato, meaning drowned pork, in white wine...
...hold the stew! Can the soup! The name of Carol Cutler's new cookbook says it all: Pâté, the New Main Course for the '80s (Rawson; $14.95). Cutler, who is chief American consultant for TIME-LIFE Books' Good Cook series and the author of three previous cookbooks, maintains that most pates and terrines (the terms here are used almost interchangeably) are too filling, too important to serve as a first course. And she effectively demolishes the myths that they are fattening, costly and difficult to make. Pâtés have another great...
...sour okra, eggplant "cooked in pickling style." Better yet, serve them with the great main dishes of India. Memorable recipes, including several in which lamb replaces hard-to-find goat, range from Persian-derived shahi korma ("royal" lamb or beef with a creamy almond sauce) to Kashmiri red lamb stew. Other party entrees include Mughlai lamb-and-rice casserole, chicken with almonds and sultanas, and easy-to-make haddock baked in yogurt sauce. Jaffrey describes a technique by which the home cook can simulate the tandoori-style dishes offered by so many Indian restaurants without investing in the expense...
Specialties that deserve an honorable place on the American table include kulebyaka, the glorious salmon pie described by Chekhov as "shameless in its nakedness, a temptation to sin"; pirozhki, the more plebeian meat or vegetable pies; kidney and dill pickle soup; Azerbaidzhan lamb patties; veal stew with cherries; Ukrainian honey cake; smetannik, a rich pie of sour cream, jam and nuts; and the celebrated Guriev kasha, a thickened compote of brandied fruits. To round out a Russian banquet, Goldstein provides instructions for a dozen deliciously flavored vodkas, and with them a toast to the meal: Eshte, eshte na zdorovye...