Word: stews
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Wolfert believes that the southwest has more varieties of soup than all the rest of France. The greatest, though little known outside the region, is garbure, a creation of cabbage, beans, salt pork and endless embellishments. In Wolfert's interpretation it becomes a thick stew enriched with preserved duck or goose, ham hock and garlic sausage. Among other distinctive potages, she stirs up a modern version of a traditional Basque soup called ttoro and an oyster velouté with black caviar made from Gironde River sturgeon...
...potatoes and sausage. One chapter is devoted to vegetable potages, including the soupe au pistou of southern France, Italian garbanzo and pasta soup, and gazpacho. Fish soups include a spicy Peruvian chowder, Italian zuppa di pesce, and a Mediterranean concoction flavored with Pernod, as well as an elegant oyster stew and a striped-bass offering from Manhattan...
Ivens, who wrote the excellent Glorious Stew, whisks with authority through the steamy world of navarin, khoreshe, blanquette, ragout, jambalaya, estouffade, carbonado, col lops and pot-au-feu. She presents Italian, French and Viennese versions of Hungarian goulash, "five fragrances" stew from China, and two savory South American specialties: puchero criolla, a Latin version of New England boiled dinner, and carbonada criolla, beef stew served in a pumpkin. One notable entry is a veal stew from Jerez, Spain's sherry capital, redolent of fino; a dish from Italy is called maiale affogato, meaning drowned pork, in white wine...
...hold the stew! Can the soup! The name of Carol Cutler's new cookbook says it all: Pâté, the New Main Course for the '80s (Rawson; $14.95). Cutler, who is chief American consultant for TIME-LIFE Books' Good Cook series and the author of three previous cookbooks, maintains that most pates and terrines (the terms here are used almost interchangeably) are too filling, too important to serve as a first course. And she effectively demolishes the myths that they are fattening, costly and difficult to make. Pâtés have another great...
...sour okra, eggplant "cooked in pickling style." Better yet, serve them with the great main dishes of India. Memorable recipes, including several in which lamb replaces hard-to-find goat, range from Persian-derived shahi korma ("royal" lamb or beef with a creamy almond sauce) to Kashmiri red lamb stew. Other party entrees include Mughlai lamb-and-rice casserole, chicken with almonds and sultanas, and easy-to-make haddock baked in yogurt sauce. Jaffrey describes a technique by which the home cook can simulate the tandoori-style dishes offered by so many Indian restaurants without investing in the expense...