Word: superpremium
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Dates: during 1981-1981
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Anyone who doubts that superpremium buyers are getting more than ice cream should consider the Häagen-Dazs success. Salty old Tom Carvel, head of the 47-year-old, 800-store Carvel chain, is derisive: "All they did was reduce the air pump and quadruple the price, and the fools buy it." He says the nation's only real superpremium is his own, which is made fresh daily in his stores. Almost everyone else is impressed, and with reason. Reuben Mattus, who is 68 and white-whiskered now, helped his widowed mother Leah sell her lemon ices...
This comic opera of marketing has a sequel. In early 1980 two more superpremium ice creams with throat-curdling foreign names hit the eastern market. Frusen Glädjé actually means "frozen delight" in Swedish (with an un-Swedish accent over the final e added for class), and the American owners made the unusual move of incorporating their company in Sweden. Their nectar is manufactured in Utica. Mattus took the non-Swedes to court for what amounted to infringement of balderdash, and his case was thrown out. The other newcomer is Alpen Zauber (German for "alpine magic"), a Brooklyn...
...dissertations in molecular biology ten years ago at the University of Colorado at Boulder, when Arsenault's homemade ice cream turned out to be so popular at parties they tried selling a few gallons to stores during the summer break. They now own Mountain High, a wildly popular superpremium freezery in Colorado that sells 20,000 gal. of natural ice cream a month...
...Superpremium makers and feeders might take butterfat for thought from a test of 28 vanillas run a couple of Sundays ago by the Washington Star. Nine food experts, including Weiss, rated his own product fifth but decreed that Häagen-Dazs belonged in second place ("pleasing texture," "natural flavor," insufficient "oomph"). Frusen Glädjé was not tested; Alpen Zauber was far down the list, in the "puffy-fluffy, sweet-misery" category, having been rated "creamy but no taste," "salty." So were several other prestige brands: Sedutto's, Bassetts, Baskin-Robbins, Louis Sherry, Breyers and Schrafft...
...passion. The steamy South-Central states consume less than half (10.77 qt. per digestive system per year) as much as the hungriest region, which is New England (21.86 qt.). Marketing men in the dairy industry have a suspicion that forthright Southeasterners will not eat what they cannot pronounce. A superpremium sells there under the no-foolin' name of Rich & Creamy...