Word: surfed
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...rear did not understand. They kept coming on. The front line stopped. The ranks behind rippled and deepened. Soon the street was filled with a discolored tide that washed up over the gutters, into doorways and alleys, lapping uneasily and stirring with a vague noise like the rumor of surf. What were the cops trying to pull off? What was the big idea...
...feel that the wind-machines, the smoke-bombs, and the Kleig lights are lurking just around the corner. The sky has an odd opaque quality, unknown to this climate. The shallow waters shimmer with reflections from the clean sands below, and the proas of the natives sweep through the surf, like birds skimming the clouds. The cocoanut trees wave to and from against a high sky-line. No tricks, no artifice, no sham appears in "Moana", but only the peaceful glory of the South Seas...
...shoot an arrow from a six-foot yew-bow, to hit a golf ball, to throw a baseball, to cast a heavy fishing-slug for distance in the surf -manly exercises all. But does the missile fly farthest from rod, arm, club or bow? Which engine is superior in speed, in accuracy? A hypothetical question, surely; one that might be debated i Erewhon on Midsummer Day, with Walter Travis expatiating kindly to Amos Rusie, Izaak Walton put-tnig in a gnarled, shy word, and the laughter of Robin Hood foaming clear and soft like...
...through the surf put a gasoline launch, the Thelma, with a fishing party aboard. The beach crowd watched her careen on the breakers, herded to the water's edge when the boat capsized. Good swimmers ran splashing out, split the first wave with a dive, plowed off to the rescue...
...lead swam a figure darker than the most deeply sunburned, an Hawaiian duke, Kahanamoku of Olympic fame. Before him, as he swam, he pushed his long surf board...