Word: surfer
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...face of a giant swell rolling in over the notorious Jaws reef off Maui, Hawaii, last January, he couldn't find the bottom. "It was growing in front of me and growing behind me, so it felt like I wasn't getting anywhere," recalls Cabrinha, 42, a veteran surfer from Hawaii. There had already been 10 "horrific wipeouts" that morning. As Cabrinha was gaining speed going down the wave, its breaking lip was closing in fast from behind. People watching from the shore began shouting, "Go, Pete, go!" as he raced ahead of the white water...
That record may not stand long. In this era of extreme sports--when even an 80-year-old former President dons a skydiving suit and jumps out of a plane to celebrate his birthday--big-wave surfers have set their sights on a loftier, more hubris-laden goal: a 100-ft. wave. "Twenty years ago, no one would ever have conceived of [riding] a 100-ft. wave," says Sam George, editor of Surfer magazine. "But the surfers that are really at the vanguard today are confident they can ride [one]." In 2001 they were further emboldened in their quest when...
Tillman grew up in San Jose, Calif., where his father Pat Sr. is a lawyer and former college wrestler. Like a lot of young Californians, the long-haired Pat Jr. could embody the surfer dude. In fact, dude was one of his favorite words. His other favorite word isn't printable. Cargo shorts, flip-flops and T shirts were his standard outfit. But at Arizona State University, he had the brains to get his marketing degree in 3 1/2 years--and with a 3.84-grade-point average. At school he got into the habit of climbing at night...
...many classroom hours he would need to graduate. When McBride told him, Tillman shot back that it was McBride's job to make sure he didn't do any more or any less. "I had a weird reaction," says McBride. "I almost said, 'Yes, sir'--except he had that surfer hairdo...
...among the horsey set,” I might just invest in a Lilly Pulitzer accessory one of these days. After all, if a 71 year-old fashion and society maven like Lilly says it’s fun to bring out one’s inner pinkalicious-flowery-surfer-diva, who am I to disagree...