Word: surfer
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...Vermont and Rhode Island? Should two such diverse areas as Northern and Southern California both be dominated by the single county of Los Angeles? Already some Northern Californians are renewing the old plea for statehood of their own. Their rallying cry: "Would you want your daughter to marry a surfer?" Finally, as Governor Earl Warren once insisted, are not the many minority interests more important to the welfare of a state than their population indicates...
...Being a surfer, skateboarder, and rock-and-roll enthusiast, I think your article concerning these things [June 5] was extremely unfair and one-sided. Death is a reality in our everyday life. It is unfortunate that so many people believe that teen-agers should be protected from knowledge of its existence. Music is an expression of life and should not leave out any of the realities that are combined within its wide realm...
Makaha is where the waves build up to 20 and 30 ft., and race diagonally into shore at 35 m.p.h. It is the supreme test-"the place," says one surfer, "where reputations are made...
...last week's championships used a "gun"-a long, heavy (up to 40 Ibs.) board designed for stability in big waves like Makaha's. Cabell preferred a shorter, lighter (25 Ibs.) foam-and-fiber-glass "natural," designed for easy maneuverability and ordinarily used in smaller waves. Each surfer got seven tries. Cabell rode four of his waves almost half a mile clear in to the beach, catching each looming 25-footer off Makaha's northwestern tip, standing up for 300 yds., dropping prone as it dissolved to foam crossing a reef, then rising again as the wave...
Boys in Baggies. The true surfer is scornful of the "ho-daddies" (a gibe of undetermined origin) and "grem-mies" (gremlins, usually girls), those hangers-on who may never get wet behind the ears as far as surfing goes but like to immerse themselves in the dense jargon of the in group. To all, "baggies" are the loose-legged boxer swim trunks worn by the boys. "Hot dogging" is either class-A surfing or show-off stuff. To "take gas" or "wipe out" is to lose a board in the curl of a wave and land in the foamy "soup...