Word: susser
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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Some of the best-known exemplars of the new tropical taste are hidden away in suburban shopping strips. At Chef Allen's in North Miami Beach, Allen Susser's most popular dishes include rock-shrimp hash topped by a mustardy sabayon sauce, followed perhaps by seared citrus-crusted yellowfin tuna with a macedoine of papaya, mango and yellow pepper. At Mark's Place, North Miami diners line up early for Mark Militello's signature dish, curry fried oysters nestled on a tamarind-banana salsa and West Indian bread, all topped with an orange sour cream. "It's a long...
...apples, globe-shaped canistels that taste like eggnog. On the edge of the Everglades, the husband- and-wife team of Marc and Kiki Ellenby are the only commercial producer of fresh litchi nuts in the U.S. "We're just beginning to use Florida's natural resources for cooking," says Susser. "The fun is that we're breaking new ground." The Caribbean, especially Cuban, influence is vital. Susser picks up recipes from his Haitian and Cuban kitchen help. A Haitian suggested poaching boniato, a white sweet potato, in milk before mashing it into a Cream of Wheat consistency that goes beautifully...
...that gives it such a distinctive lift is not a food at all, but sticky 90-degree heat and 90% humidity. To retain their allure under those sultry conditions, offerings must be satisfying but light and refreshing. "The flavors must make sense to a body in this heat," says Susser. Rather than being coated with flour, fish is citrus-crusted or dusted with crushed pistachios. Fruits lighten up even familiar entrees: Susser offers a sublime Key lime pasta...