Word: sweetbread
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...small things," says Sienatra, fondly known to regulars as Felix the Chef. In the case of the Wind Chime, that attitude translates into fastidiousness (think personalized menus and elaborate presentation) and food that is prepared slowly, with obvious dollops of love and care. The oven-baked chicken with veal sweetbread and mushrooms that we tried was the highlight of an eight-course set meal spread over two hours. The à la carte menu, including a wonderfully traditional Scotch broth, is similarly made for lingering over. "This is not a place to come if you are in a hurry," says Sienatra...
...with an outdoor space of their own. The centerpiece, however, is the expanded kitchen and open-air dining space that brought home the fruits with a Michelin star last year. I cashed in with an antipasto of veal and tuna carpaccio followed by roast lamb in a surprisingly subtle sweetbread and goat's cheese sauce. The food and service was such a pleasure that I almost forgot to enjoy the moon hovering over our Mediterranean cliffside perch. It's simpatico bordering on the divine. tel: (39- 0564) 858 111; www.pellicanohotel.com
...Post man conjures up some mango juice, and I go out on the road to a bakery selling wheels of sweetbread fresh from a wood-fired oven. The lights go out (electricity is stolen from Chaman a few hundred meters down the road), so we light candles...
...most enduring successes has been Jean-Louis Palladin. In 1979, after ending his partnership in a two-star restaurant in Condom, France, he went to Washington to cook at the Watergate Hotel, in an intimate setting named for him, Jean-Louis. He is a master at game and sweetbread dishes, and his soups and sauces based on purees of sweet peppers are seductively silken. Such enticing food enthralled an audience that included President Reagan, who celebrated his 70th birthday at Jean-Louis and thanked the chef for immigrating...
...thymus. It lies just below the neck and behind the top of the breastbone, and in all the centuries that man has been studying physiology, its purpose has been unclear. It has hitherto fallen to butchers, marketing the thymus of the lamb and calf as the "neck sweetbread," to give the gland its only obvious usefulness. Now a British cancer researcher...