Word: sweets
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Americans have lost their sense of subtlety, and the ordinary cliche now passes as mythic. The oratory of Reagan's State of The Union addresses--infused as they are with syrupy-sweet verbiage and tired images of eagles streaking across blue skies and infected the nation's culture the point where heavy-handedness and sentimentality are no longer merely the excesses of grade-school storywriters. They are, instead, the stuff films are made...
There was chokingly sweet carrot butter, which the manufacturer claimed makes men think "they have died and gone to heaven." Also sour-sweet and metallic- tasting salad dressings "designed" by Gloria Vanderbilt and fool-the-eye chocolate Buffalo chicken wings packed with a container of blue-cheese dip. Something called Cowboy Caviar, made in California, was based on an old recipe for a Russian eggplant appetizer; and Le Brut d'Escargot, from France, proved to be ghostly, ghastly white snail's eggs that tasted like salty paregoric...
...peanut butter with chocolate for a truly throat-clutching effect, and the Beverly Hills Confection Collection dished up samples of brittle with rancid- tasting peanuts. Everywhere were products for the health- and diet- conscious: "lo" in salt, sugar, calories and fat, and "lite," meaning anything one wanted it to. Sweet, as usual, seemed to be the top flavor. Perhaps as Americans give up salt, they reach for sugar, figuring that one gritty white seasoning is as good as another...
Those who like it sweet can indulge in the down-home flavor of pecan-butter brittle confected by Buckley's Candies of Louisiana. Sophisticated and pricier are some imports from Belgium: Le Chocolatier Manon's bittersweet chocolates filled with mandarin orange liqueur and burnt caramel. Even more stunning is its big marbleized chocolate scallop shell that holds nine chocolate praline fruits de mer -- mussels, crayfish and shrimp -- a dessert that delights the eye as much as the palate...
ADMINISTRATION: Daniel M. Rubin, Donald Sweet...