Word: tallinn
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...drier and lighter table wines. The traditional sweet dessert wines remain popular for festive occasions. The Estonians are also trying to export them. I visited the nation's biggest and oldest winery, Põltsamaa Veinikelder, tel: (372) 776 6199; www.poltsamaafelix.ee, about 140 km south of the capital, Tallinn, to do some sampling. Tasting notes: LOSSIVEIN '85 Pure blueberry, drunk slightly chilled. The best of the new generation of drier wines, recommended as an accompaniment to a hearty meal of game. It is also used as communion wine in local Protestant churches. Color: cheerful Beaujolais red Nose: syrupy Palate: once...
With its 2-m-thick walls and squalid cells, the Patarei sea fortress on the edge of Tallinn, capital of the Baltic republic of Estonia, has long borne witness to the brutality of occupation. Built in 1840 by Russian Czar Nicholas I, it was used[an error occurred while processing this directive] as a prison and execution site by the two powers that marched into Estonia in the 20th century, Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. But Estonia is once again an independent country, the last prisoners have gone, and one Friday night last month, the fortress was literally pulsating...
...relations with Russia itself are uneasy; a border treaty that both sides signed last year after long negotiations remains open because Moscow now says it wants new terms. In this charged atmosphere, even small disputes sometimes assume oversized importance. Scuffles broke out at a Soviet-era war memorial in Tallinn this year on May 9, the anniversary of the end of World War II, after Russian veterans unfurled Soviet flags. That prompted an outraged reaction, including a threat by one Estonian nationalist leader to blow up the monument. The park where the memorial is situated has since been cordoned...
...Estonia's characteristics that many of the top jobs in politics and business are held by people under 40, who were too young to have been tainted by the Soviet past. They are also the ones building the new homes that are shooting up on the outskirts of Tallinn, and refurbishing their apartments. Much of this is being done on credit; banks report that their lending is up by a startling 50% this year, leading some to worry about a bubble economy, especially in real estate. "Some people think they have discovered the never-ending hockey stick," frets Erkki Raasuke...
...DIED. LENNART MERI, 76, witty, charismatic first President of independent Estonia, following its 1991 split from the Soviet Union; in Tallinn. A survivor of a Soviet labor camp, he was a leader of Estonia's independence movement from the late 1980s until the Baltic state regained sovereignty. In his two terms as President, he pushed free-market policies and established close ties with...