Word: tamarind
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Kitty, 52, has a few dozen chickens and 4 hectares of mango, tamarind and oily mahua nut trees. On the rare occasions she has $20 to buy boxes of fruit, she sells bananas to passengers on the Calcutta Express at McCluskieganj railway station. It's hard to see how she earns enough to feed her four daughters. But it's almost impossible to imagine that when she was born inside these whitewashed walls, McCluskieganj was a paradise for mixed-race children of the British empire. What Kitty remembers most about the early days is the hope. The settlers' idea...
...Chai's place serves up top-notch Dai food?dishes like beef fried with lemongrass, crispy dried sheets of riverweed and grilled snakehead fish with tamarind?as well as all the Thai standards. And if you're game, he'll pour you a generous measure of snake wine from a vat stuffed with coiled serpents and regale you with tales of his adventures...
...Irrawaddy. Villagers, back from the fields and trinket stands, tend to their evening ablutions while herdsmen drive weary water buffalo home after a good soak. Boats can be chartered from most riverside hotels, and nothing tastes better on board than a cold bottle of beer chased with tamarind candies...
...effort. They're partly right; it's too bum-numbingly far on a motorbike and, at about $150 for a day trip in a four-wheel drive, getting there in comfort is pricey. For that money, though, you get a proper guide from a reputable agency like Tamarind Tours (tamarindtours.com) or Lolei Travel (asiatours.net/cambodia) . You'll need that because few guidebooks explain the history or significance of the area in detail and, contrary to what you'll be told, Phnom Kulen offers plenty to know...
...boiled some water, plopped three vacuum-sealed bags into it, let them sit for 25 min., slit open the bags and arranged the ingredients on a plate. (I admit I did saute the lobster in a bit of butter for a few seconds, but it was worth it.) The tamarind barbecue pork ribs ($19.99) from the Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe, N.M., were even tastier and cheaper than the lobster, and they required a mere 12 min. in a hot oven. The only real disappointment of the evening was the frozen carrots, which were tasteless and cost...