Word: tastevin
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...troglodytic and heretical statements as "no white wine...can really be said to improve with age," and "most connoisseurs would open their Moselles before three years." I feel sure Professor Saintsbury has been mis-cited; such statements might not be strictly untrue as generalizations, but most members of the Tastevin would agree that they are gross oversimplifications. Why, it is like saying that all the wines of the Medoc have intellectual bouquets--a statement that totally ignores the near bluffness of the Brainaire Ducru and the sincerity of the Pichon Longueville (doubtless due to its being a Pauillac...
...your article on Rene Peroy, Harvard's fencing coach, the statement appears, "Peroy in action is proof that a fencer, like a good bottle of Moselle, can improve with age." This careless simile should not go uncorrected. Any member of the Tastevin can tell you that a good bottle of Moselle will only improve with a little age, say up to five or six years at most. There may be rare exceptions, when a Moselle has been found to improve in bottle for as many as 15 or 20 years, but this is strictly the limit, and cannot be compared...
...France. Bruce knows the French economy as few Frenchmen do. With a politician's touch, he gets on superbly with France's politicians. He speaks perfect French, owns a trained musical ear, an art connoisseur's eye, and a winetaster's palate (the Chevaliers du Tastevin, a group of winebibbers sworn never to let water pass their lips, have elected him grand master). With the help of his pretty second wife, he entertains prodigiously (one Fourth of July reception cost as much as the entire official entertainment allowance for the year). Like London, Paris...