Word: tatami
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Sushi Sunday has evolved over the years. In the beginning it was just a party, thrown by Topjian and his roommates when they were living in DeWolfe. (Topjian is now back in Quincy, where his sparsely furnished room features a tatami mat and oversized pillows.) The boys invited friends and friends-of-friends over for a night of sushi, sake and a trip-hop DJ. Although the gathering devolved into what Topjian deems “a crazy old dance party,” sushi fans and sake sippers begged him for more. “People really showed interest...
...morning and stay all day. That's because it's more a spa than a tub. For starters, each of the many baths boasts different mineral infusions for a variety of benefits. There are Jacuzzis, outdoor baths, aromatherapy saunas, massage rooms, facialists, darkened resting rooms, even a vast tatami-mat eatery complete with sequin-clad balladeer. Bathers lounge all day in pajamas provided by the spa, slipping in and out to take another...
After unwinding with green tea in your tatami-mat room, change into a yukata and head to the baths. Before you cannonball in, though, take your washcloth to the showers, soap up and shampoo. Only when squeaky clean should you hit the baths. The indoor one is nice, but the true gem is the rotenburo (outdoor bath). The stone-ringed pool overlooks the river, with your privacy protected by rhododendron and cedars...
Toasty and relaxed from the bath, you don the yukata again and prepare for a lavish meal. In a private tatami room, matronly servers scuttle in with a parade of delicate courses--shimmering sashimi, crispy tempura, individual shabu-shabu pots. Meanwhile, soft futons are laid out in your room, where you will drift off to the gurgle of the river...
...tinted Western charm--afternoon tea, French cuisine, decor like your Great Aunt Minnie's--infuses the famed institution. Across the street, the Naraya Inn (81-460-2-2411) offers more of a Japanese flavor. For centuries it has played host to traveling nobles who have sought out its airy tatami rooms with shoji screens opening on a traditional garden and ponds full of alarmingly aggressive carp...