Word: teau
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...setting behind Château Pontet-Canet as Alfred Tesseron finishes his tour of the property, perched above the legendary Bordeaux wine village of Pauillac. He has talked proudly about how his father bought the château 30 years ago, but points out some of his recent investments: a water-recycling system, the new storage and bottling barn, and the twin rows of conical fermentation vats. Now comes the moment of truth...
Marie Courselle knows all too well what he means. Château Thieuley, which her grandfather bought in the 1950s and which she now runs with her younger sister Sylvie, used to sell about 30% of its output to big French retailers. Then, two years ago, it received a blunt message: Cut your prices, or we'll cut back on purchases. The Courselles refused, and their hypermarket sales halved. They are now trying to build up a commercial network of their own. That means relying on a handful of merchants to sell into major markets and doing the rest themselves. When...
...conundrums for Bordeaux is its renown. The region's top wines command investment-banker prices because of their quality and limited supply. These makers have no interest in being associated--even remotely--with down-market plonk. Why would they when Château Cheval Blanc and Château Lafite-Rothschild, for example, are currently selling their 2005 vintage for about $700 a bottle? But producers in the middle aren't happy. They worry that the massive price increases pushed through by the likes of Château Pontet-Canet will give consumers the message that all Bordeaux are expensive. "What does...
...avoid a damaging fragmentation between those who are doing well and those who aren't. "It's almost like a Latin American economy, some very rich and some very poor. This could cause a revolution," worries Pierre Lurton, who runs two of the most exclusive properties, Château Cheval Blanc in the St. Emilion region and Château d'Yquem, the world-famous sweet white Sauternes. Back at Château Pontet-Canet, Tesseron sits down for dinner with his wife Isabelle and a decanter of his house 1996. In the Bordeaux hierarchy, Pontet-Canet isn't one of the very...
...close the meal, Mo bestowed a celestial gift upon us in the form of dessert wine, this one a 2002 from ChĂ¢teau Memoires Cadillac in Sauternes, France. Imagine a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice laced with a sweet fragrance and no bitterness, and the flavor of this magnificent wine comes into focus. It had a perfect sugar/acid balance, an effervescent aroma of orange peel, and a slight cedar backbone...