Word: tel
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...Usagi The 1960s are alive and well at this pint-sized, retro watering hole. Proprietress Saiko-san sets the tone with period Japanese pop, good-natured banter and quick sake refills. Tel: (81-3) 3822-0070, 2-16-2 Nezu...
...Yakuzen Curry Jinenjo This local institution claims that the 11 Indian spices, six Chinese herbs and eight vegetables in its curries have medicinal properties. Luckily, they're also delicious. Tel: (81-3) 3824-3162, 5-9-25 Yanaka...
...Yabusai Sousuke This was once the local ice and charcoal shop; today, with wooden walls beautifully restored, it is a public gallery and studio for young textile and hat designer Chie Yoshikawa. Tel: (81) 90-4420-2439, 1-2-16 Yanaka...
...EXPO This vintage-shopper's paradise stocks bowling shirts and fur coats, classic Japanese toys and charmingly outdated telephones. Tel: (81-3) 3824-6899, 4-26-30 Ikenohata...
...Yamanaka Ryokan Try Tokyo's best kaiseki-style Chinese restaurant and sleep on a fluffy futon at this little-known gem, just five minutes by taxi from the express train to Narita. Tel: (81-3) 3821-4751, 4-23-1 Ikenohata. (See Time.com/Travel for city guides, stories and advice...