Word: tel
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...afternoon I might browse the antique and secondhand shops in Cukurcuma and stop by my favorite English-language bookstore, Pandora, tel: (90-212) 230 0962. I like reading in the tranquil gardens of the Archeology Museum, tel: (90-212) 520 7740, where you can enjoy a Turkish coffee amid the sound of ferry horns and friendly cats. For dinner I'd go to Simdi, tel: (90-212) 252 5443, in Asmalimescit, which serves good food in a relaxed, convivial atmosphere. Try the grilled kofte. (See Watch TIME's video "Turkey's Unconventional Muslim Minority...
...Istanbul begins by looking out onto the Bosphorus. The city's colors and the way they melt away ugliness never cease to surprise me. I like to wander down Istiklal Street in Beyoglu early in the day, while it's still empty, toward Tunel, stopping off at Robinson Crusoe, tel: (90-212) 293 6968, for books; Lale Plak, tel: (90-212) 293 7739, for CDs; Umit Unal, tel: (90-212) 245 7886, and BNG, tel: (90-212) 251 9726, for funky, inspired clothes; and Takil, tel: (90-212) 292 1792 for artisanal jewelry...
...adore the food at Ece, tel: (90-212) 245 7628 - the vegetable-in-olive-oil dishes are delicious. From there, you can go down to the Spice Market and then hop onto a ferry to Uskudar to watch the sunset. Come back to the European side for dinner, at the inventive Abracadabra, tel: (90-212) 358 6087, in Arnavutkoy. Chat or dance the night away at any of the cafés in Cihangir or bars in Beyoglu. There's no sleeping in Istanbul...
...Kerimcan Guleryuz, 39, art-gallery owner and curator I'd wake up early to catch the sunrise from Bebek Park and then go for a fantastic breakfast at Happily Ever After, tel: (90-212) 263 4138, where all the breads are homemade. I'd meet one of my artists for lunch at Vogue, tel: (90- 212) 227 4404, in Besiktas for the great view and fine food. I'd order something authentically Turkish, like veal kulbasti on a bed of smoked aubergine...
...From there, I'd head to the historic Misir Apartment block in Beyoglu, home to some of the country's best contemporary-art galleries. For a light aperitif overlooking Old Istanbul, I'd either go to 360, tel: (90-212) 251 1042, on the rooftop, or to nearby Leb-i Derya, tel: (90-212) 251 1008. For dinner I'd meet my wife at the Dragon, tel: (90-212) 231 6200, an Istanbul classic, for Chinese food, and then go to a jazz concert at the atmospheric open-air theater next door...