Word: tenderizers
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...blossomed into a cosmopolitan city, it has spawned restaurants that serve more than the down-home fare associated with the South. Even so, visitors should first sample the native cuisine. That includes such obvious specialties as crunchy fried chicken with livers and other giblets, fork-tender country-fried steak, braised pork chops, fried catfish and black-eyed peas. To these are added local esoterica like potlikker, a bracing broth that results from cooking pork with greens and is best accented with a dash of Tabasco. Small wonder that to some this is known as soul food...
...best specimens of barbecued beef, chopped pork and baby back ribs are at Aleck's Barbeque Heaven, a tiny tumbledown shack that slices up lean, tender meat flavored with counterpoints of woodsy smoke and black pepper, complemented by a thin, brassy sauce unmarred by sweetness. Runners-up include the Auburn Avenue Rib Shack, in the historic black downtown area of Sweet Auburn, and Harold's Barbeque, the site of the best-quality meats, the most comfortable dining room and, sadly, the stickiest, sweetest sauce...
...first glance, gussied up with enough faux-everything kitsch to make one wish for a machete to clear a path to a table. However, once one is seated, delights appear, marred only occasionally by a lax waiter or an overdone duck. There are sublimely puffy lump-crabmeat cakes and tender veal chops with morels. Not to be missed: profiteroles filled with foie gras. The kitchen also serves an original version of pot-au-feu for which the succulently moist, tarragon- scented chicken arrives with leeks and angel-hair pasta, not in the traditional bowl with soup but on a plate...
GRAHAM PARKER: THE MONA LISA'S SISTER (RCA). New tunes as tough and tender as a dime novel. Parker hasn't released an album since 1985, but this one makes up for a lot of lost time...
Scandal was the sea in which Capote swam. Clarke quotes Capote's story, for instance, of his not-very-electric sexual fling with Errol Flynn, and of a tender interlude with John Garfield ("one of the nicest people I've ever known. My mother saw him just once and tried to get him into bed with her"). Capote used such shockers to draw corresponding admissions from subjects he interviewed. Clarke's breezy and sympathetic account inevitably teems with them and is sure to keep tongues wagging busily through the summer...