Word: teriyaki
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Tampopo specializes in tempura, the Japanese frying technique originating in Portugal. Avoid the teriyaki and stick to what Tampopo does best—the basic tempura combos with rice and miso soup ($5.50-$8.50). The tempura is consistently above-average, combining fresh ingredients, light batter and flavors that are enhanced by the soy-based dipping sauce. Noteworthy choices include the nasu (eggplant) and sweet potato. However, avoid the tempura rolls. The consistency is doughy, and the rice overwhelms any flavor...
...irreproachably fresh and attractively arranged to best advantage behind the counter. They cause little doubt. Paralysis only sets in when it comes time to choose the meat that will complete your sandwich. Viewing the marinated pork or chicken (shredded to little bits and a veritable festival of unidentifiable components), teriyaki chicken or beef (in slabs and almost painfully boring) and a combination of ham, pate and headcheese (“Originally made entirely from the meaty parts of the head of a pig or calf, but now can include edible parts of the feet, tongue and heart”) introduces...
...also saw glimmers of hope. The agedashi dofu—fried tofu served in a fish broth and alongside grated daikon radish—was surprisingly rich and flavorful. The teriyaki salmon was exactly as it should be—grilled, perfectly done, in a gooey sweet lacquer, and accompanied by a little side of crisp, stir-fried vegetables...
...fact, Fugakyu has plenty of options for non-sushi eaters. Vegetable tempura is a large appetizer of crisply-fried produce, among which the eggplant and asparagus were particularly notable. There are skewers of tender marinated teriyaki beef and deep-fried shrimp, perfect for the faint-of-heart. And dishes of hot plentiful edamame beans—so heavily salted that they resemble an organic version of Fritos—make the perfect accompaniment to the range of sake or the excellent dry Pinot Grigio ($22) offered...
...know that fusion is hot, sizzling, more caliente than a salsa beat. It's that multiculti urge that propels us to douse a hamburger with teriyaki sauce or buy an Armani jacket with a Nehru collar. Such marriages of East and West are a harmless intermingling of cultures: a war never started by adding a dollop of wasabi to potato chips or a bindhi to Madonna's forehead...